When I think of the vacations I’ve most enjoyed, those that stand out have balanced opportunities to see, savour and experience a place, with a healthy dose of relaxation – it is a vacation, after all.
However, it wasn’t until I was immersed in Vancouver Island’s newest destination – , in Campbell River – that the realization crossed my mind.
My first trip to Italy was amazing, but it was a whirlwind two weeks of trying to pack in the cities, sites and food. A winter trip to San Diego was shorter but yielded a more relaxing week of exploring by foot, punctuated with a few daytrips, all from a comfortable, central “base camp.”
All of which brings me to a recent mid-week getaway to Campbell River, a community of about 36,000 people on the east coast of northern Vancouver Island, and a jumping-off point for all manner of outdoor adventures (check out a few exciting new packages for fall, below). Today, it’s also an amazing place to relax and rejuvenate.
Located about 3 1/2 hours north from Victoria, or an hour and 45 minutes from Nanaimo, the 100-room Naturally Pacific Resort opened in May at the 18-hole , designed by Graham Cooke and rebuilt in 2017.
The pet-friendly resort was developed by the Mailmans, a fourth-generation Campbell River family, and resort owner Amanda Mailman had a direct hand in both the vision and design, we were told during a tour of the hotel and grounds with Ondrea Ross, Director of Sales and Marketing. Already popular for weddings and special events, the grounds boast a variety of beautifully lit and landscaped outdoor areas, adjacent to the pool, hot tub and patio area.
The resort design embraces the best of West Coast living – weighty timbers beckon visitors inside to a sophisticated interior with nods to the community’s location between forest and sea. Spacious, superbly comfortable rooms overlook either the beautifully landscaped golf course or the oceans and mountains beyond the city, with space to sit, relax and, yes, enjoy a cosy sleep on the pillow-top bed once the day’s adventures are done – all the more restful after a soak beneath the rainshower head, in a shower and bathroom more akin to today’s custom homes than what’s expected at a hotel.
After settling in and soaking in the view from our balcony, my partner, Geoff, and I headed downstairs to the elegant dining room at , described as a modern interpretation of a classic North American steakhouse. Executive Chef Ryan Watson has created a menu highlighting quality, sustainably sourced meats that are crafted with local vegetables, herbs and other ingredients into delectable comfort food. Along with local farmers, a 10,000-sq.ft on-site garden and orchard provide a variety of fresh ingredients while a small apiary provides honey for signature drinks and dressings.
We were offered an array of possibilities, including the expected steakhouse dishes, but vegetarian and vegan options as well. I opted for the glazed short rib – succulent and flavourful with grainy mustard jus, served with pea puree, roasted vegetables and scrumptious potato croquette. Geoff selected from that week’s prix fixe menu – a caesar salad appetizer, striploin steak with mouth-watering tallow-whipped potatoes and roasted vegetables, and a perfectly shareable creme brûlée for dessert.
Experience and exploration
Beyond its steakhouse offerings, Carve also serves a full breakfast and lunch. Fresh, hot coffee was just the thing before starting out day with a hearty eggs Benedict (Geoff) and locally baked sourdough toast, sausage and potatoes (me).
We soaked up a little sun with a stroll around the grounds before visiting the resort’s – and what really is the ultimate combination of experience and relaxation: a private hour in the mineral pool, where the soothing waters washed away any residual cares from the previous day’s travels.
This spacious heated pool features a blend of naturally sourced minerals, including magnesium, sodium and potassium, to soothe sore muscles and revitalize your skin. The effects seemed palpable as we settled into this refined, welcoming space, soaking in the warm waters and reflecting on the experience and the day to come.
Between soaks, we sampled the trio of adjacent Italian-made Experience Showers, combining chromotherapy, aquatherapy, aromatherapy and sound. With settings ranging from a cool mist to a warm rain to a muscle-relaxing stream, and options designed for relaxation or energy, the shower is a unique counterpoint to the mineral pool – a highly recommended pairing.
Satiated and relaxed, it was time to venture out of the resort – however begrudgingly – to experience the North Island community.
A little fish, a little golf
Long home to Liǧʷiɫdax̌ʷ people, the community that is now Campbell River later drew the attention of others for its forest resources and rich fish stocks. In the late 19th century it became one of the province’s first tourism destinations, and would later ,” as wealthy overseas visitors relied on knowledgeable Indigenous guides to navigate local waters in hopes of hooking the famed tyee.
While the industry has changed since those early years, sport fishing remains a key element of local tourism and a popular pastime for locals. After a stop at the for a few supplies, we headed to Campbell River’s iconic 600-foot-long – ideal for a little fishing or a stroll and an ice cream while soaking in the views of Discovery Passage.
The pier extends some 150 feet from shore and in addition to fishing is a popular spot for catching the sunset and for spotting passing whales and dolphins. While we brought our rods, the seasonal concession stand offers rod and tackle rentals; rod holders, bait stands and cleaning tables are located along the pier.
It was a gorgeous early fall day, and the waters in front of us bustled with various boats – anglers, kayakers and ferry passengers heading to nearby Quadra Island – but the tides weren’t with us and the lone salmon we hooked escaped with a twist, a splash and a flick of the tail.
With a fish tale but no fish, it was time to explore one of the seaside city’s other must-visit destinations, the locally owned , a craft brewery serving flavourful beers, delicious food and good company. It was – appropriately – perfectly crispy halibut for me, accompanied by flavourful duck fat-fried potatoes (so much better than the omnipresent fries!) accompanied by a tasting flight. Geoff’s burger was juicy and cheesy, enjoyed with the Super Trendy Hazy IPA.
Returning to the resort, it was time to visit , a lounge and driving range featuring cutting-edge technology from Toptracer. In our private bay, complete with comfy couch seating and table service for food and beverages, we took turns with the house clubs and automated ball dispenser, tracking our swings, distance and arc. The group next to us brought their own clubs and had fun with the option to play – virtually – courses like the legendary St. Andrews.
While neither of us is an avid golfer, we agreed – this was a lot of fun, and equally ideal for beginners or serious players looking to perfect their shot. And, with space for up to eight per bay, it would be a blast for friend groups, birthday celebrations, or corporate outings.
We finished the night chatting with the friendly team at the bar, sipping a caesar before strolling back to the room via the patio where the firepit beckoned with a cosy, relaxing glow.
If you go:
• Naturally Pacific Resort – Visit in Campbell River at . Learn more and book online at or call
- From Oct. 2 to 20, 2024, Naturally Pacific Resort has partnered with Campbell River Whale Watching to offer an exclusive October Grizzly Getaway, including two nights at the resort plus a thrilling full-day trip to see grizzly bears at Bute Inlet, the traditional territory of the Homalco First Nation, or Toba Inlet, home to the Klahoose First Nation. On land, Indigenous guides lead guests to a series of raised platforms with prime viewing opportunities to see grizzly bears trying to catch and feed on the spawning salmon.
- Fall is also the best time to witness one of the world’s great migrations as five species of salmon return up the Campbell River to the freshwater streams of their spawning grounds. Dive in and see the salmon up close, with the help of Ocean Fix Dive Shop, which offers the River Run Rental Package ($40), including a 7mm wetsuit, fins, boots, snorkel and mask, plus either a map of river entry points, or a guide for an extra fee. Swim past thousands of salmon as you float downstream towards the mouth of the Campbell River.
